Fenua experience
If you're looking for pure escapism, follow me to the Tuamotus, the atoll paradise. I started my trip with three relaxing nights in Fakarava, at the Havaiki Lodge. It was just enough time to explore the island by bike, glide in a kayak along the shores, and savor a delicious poke by the water's edge.
Rangiroa, a legendary island on my bucket list, then welcomed me for a cozy little stay on a motu disconnected from the world. This island offered me a true festival of surprises: magical dugout canoe rides in the hoa (channels), unforgettable fishing sessions in the lagoon, and the simple pleasure of a cold beer facing the sunset.
But wait... the real revelation? Tikehau!
It was my absolute love at first sight, the great love of the Tuamotus. Get ready: I'm offering you an escape to the Hakamanu Lodge.
Immediate Immersion into the Sweetness of Life
Barely an hour's flight from Tahiti is all it takes for the magic to happen. The moment your sandal touches the tarmac, your brows furrow under the sun's rays, and your heart swells at the sight of this little floating paradise. Yes, the spectacle begins as soon as you step off the plane. A few meters away stands the large fare pote'e (meeting house) of the airport. Covered in shingles, proudly displaying the island's name on a large wooden sign, the building sets the tone and illustrates the warmth characteristic of the archipelago.
Inside, the guesthouse host is already there to welcome us, the traditional flower necklace in hand. Passengers who, like me, have just disembarked mingle with those preparing to leave, though it’s impossible to confuse them: the look of wistfulness and the beautiful tan give it away... The laughter of locals who have come to pick up their loved ones floats in the air, and the baggage claim area offers us a glimpse of a magnificent hedge of hibiscus and a few coconut trees. This is the Tikehau atmosphere: an immediate immersion into the sweetness of life, a moment outside of time.
Enough dreaming! Once the luggage is collected, we climb into the car that drops us off at the island's marina. There, the real journey begins... A boat awaits us, ready to take us to the private motu (islet) of the Hakamanu Lodge...
Paradise or Daydream?
The arrival was a visual shock. A magnificent white sand motu, bungalows arranged facing a crystal-clear blue lagoon, and the sun setting gently, as if to reveal this magical landscape. Our boat was even escorted to the pontoon by a ray! I almost shed a tear at the unreal beauty.
Upon arrival, two adorable little dogs, the benevolent guardians of the premises, were waiting for us on the pontoon. This private motu is a true promise of escape. The guesthouse structures, built with local wood, blend perfectly with the environment. Special mention for the cleanliness: it's impeccable! Not a single leaf on the ground. Our bungalow is super cozy and smells fresh and clean. The discreet and friendly staff embodies Polynesian hospitality. It's a pleasure to chat with them upon their return from fishing: fresh fish for dinner guaranteed!
As for the food? One word: “wow”! Yes, the meal is the same for everyone, but what quality! Their breaded fish and vegetable stir-fry, served with white rice and a raw fish salad, could rival many restaurants...
And to finish beautifully, a small mango-pineapple panna cotta, a delight. If dinner was a feast, imagine breakfast: pancakes, pastries, fresh fruit, all with a breathtaking view of the turquoise lagoon.
Turquoise Whispers and Pink Sands
In the following days, we played at being budding explorers. Sunscreen, hat, and off we went! It was time for a kayak trip to discover the surrounding motu and their discreet inhabitants: little crabs, birds, and, naturally, hermit crabs. It was as if nature had composed a life-sized watercolor from its pastel palette: the pink sands transform into turquoise hoa (these channels where the ocean meets the lagoon).
Paddling gently over the coral, one has plenty of time to contemplate the shades of blue, mauve, and yellow—a kaleidoscope of bright colors that the lips of the pahua (giant clams) come to intensify. And because fishing is part of the islands' DNA, we also brought our small gear. I can assure you, racing by kayak to reach the flocks of birds is a total disconnection from reality. Time seemed suspended...
Where the Horizon Redefines the Present Moment
This stay was as relaxing as it was inspiring. In fact, it was our walk on the reef side that made us realize the importance of living in the present moment.
After the absolute calm of the lagoon, we explored the opposite side of the motu. There, you find yourself facing the immensity of the Pacific Ocean. The waves are wild; the power of the currents can be felt just by observing the water's surface. Feeling that sea breeze caress your face is an experience that clarifies the mind; you feel tiny against the raw force of nature surrounding you.
Then, as the day draws to a close, settled on the pontoon at sunset, with a cold beer in hand, while baby sharks play beneath your feet... That's when you realize you absolutely must seize the day and savor every moment. Tikehau is an invitation to this fullness.
